The materials, A–Z
What goes in.
120 materials from the perfumes on this site: what each one is, and which perfumes it’s in.
A
AlmondPrunus dulcis“Soft and sweet, like marzipan.”
Amberan accord, not a single oil“Warm, golden and sweet, like resin melting in the sun.”
AmbergrisA vegan accord made in our studio · no material from the whale“Warm, salty skin with a soft sweetness, like sea air on a sunny rock.”
Angelica rootAngelica archangelica“Earthy, peppery and musky, with a green, herbal lift.”
B
Bakula barkMimusops elengi“Bark from a temple tree. Woody, honeyed, old.”
BasilOcimum basilicum“Green and peppery, with a touch of anise.”
Bay leafLaurus nobilis“Cool, green and herbal at first, then a warm hint of clove.”
Benzoinresin of Styrax tonkinensis (Siam) and Styrax benzoin (Sumatra)“Soft vanilla, warm resin and a whisper of smoke.”
BergamotCitrus bergamia“The first light. Bitter, bright, it wakes the skin.”
Bhojpatra (Himalayan birch bark)Betula utilis (the bark)“Dry, papery wood with a faint curl of smoke. Old pages, cold air.”
Bhui chafaKaempferia rotunda“The ghost flower. It blooms from bare earth before the rain.”
Black mushrooman accord, not an oil“Dark and savoury, the forest floor after rain.”
Black pepperPiper nigrum“Dry, warm sparkle. All the spice, none of the burn.”
Black turmericCurcuma caesia“Cool camphor and earthy root, with a faint sweetness.”
Blackcurrant (cassis)Ribes nigrum“Tart dark berries, crushed green leaves and a wild tang.”
BrahmakamalSaussurea obvallata“A cool, pale mountain flower, imagined rather than distilled.”
Buddha’s handCitrus medica var. sarcodactylis“Sweet lemon peel with no sourness at all.”
C
CardamomElettaria cardamomum“Cool, sweet and a little minty. Spice that feels fresh.”
CarnationDianthus caryophyllus“A soft flower with a warm bite of clove.”
Carrot seedDaucus carota“Earthy and powdery, like iris root and fresh soil.”
CastoreumA vegan accord made in our studio · no material from the beaver“Soft leather, smoke and a hint of dried fruit. Warm, like fur.”
CedarwoodCedrus atlantica, Cedrus deodara, Juniperus virginiana“Dry, clean wood, like a freshly sharpened pencil.”
ChamomileChamaemelum nobile (Roman chamomile)“Green apple, warm hay and a cup of herbal tea.”
Champaca (champa)Magnolia champaca (formerly Michelia champaca)“Creamy golden flower with a hint of apricot and tea.”
CinnamonCinnamomum verum (Ceylon cinnamon)“Warm, sweet, dry spice that glows rather than burns.”
Citrusa family of fruits, pressed from their peel“The first bright minute: zest squeezed over the skin.”
CivetA vegan accord made in our studio · no animal material“Warm, skin-like and a little wild. Makes flowers glow.”
Clary sageSalvia sclarea“Herbal and tea-like, with a soft ambery warmth.”
Clean laundryan accord, not an oil“Fresh sheets drying in the sun.”
CloveSyzygium aromaticum“A sacred fire burning somewhere in the distance.”
Copaiba balsamoleoresin of Copaifera species (C. officinalis, C. langsdorffii, C. reticulata)“Soft, warm wood with a peppery, honeyed glow.”
Cotton floweran accord, not an oil“Warm cotton, soft and clean against the skin.”
Cut grassan accord, not an oil“A lawn just mown in the morning.”
D
DavanaArtemisia pallens“Dried figs soaked in wine, with a soft herbal edge.”
Dry leafan accord, not an oil“Fallen leaves warming in the sun: dusty, sweet, a little like tobacco.”
E
EucalyptusEucalyptus globulus“Cool and camphorous, like clearing your head.”
F
Fernan accord, not an oil“Green, herbal and a little barbershop.”
Frankincense (olibanum)resin of Boswellia sacra“Cool church smoke with a bright, peppery, almost citrus lift.”
G
GalangalAlpinia galanga“Like ginger, but cooler: pine, pepper and a squeeze of citrus.”
GeraniumPelargonium graveolens“Rosy and green, with a minty edge.”
Ginger grassCymbopogon martinii var. sofia“Green and grassy, with a rosy heart and a peppery kick.”
GingerZingiber officinale“A warm, lemony zing that fizzes on the skin.”
Grapefruit and pomeloCitrus × paradisi and Citrus maxima“Sharp, juicy and a little bitter. Wakes you up.”
Green leafan accord of green notes“A torn leaf between your fingers: sharp, juicy, alive.”
Green mandarinCitrus reticulata“Tangy, green and zesty, like peel snapped off an unripe fruit.”
GuaiacwoodBulnesia sarmientoi“Soft smoke, smoked tea and a hint of rose.”
H
Haydried grasses“Sun-dried grass, sweet like warm tobacco.”
HeliotropeHeliotropium arborescens“Almond, vanilla and powder, like an old-fashioned cherry pie.”
Henna flower (ruh heena)Lawsonia inermis“Sweet, heavy, honeyed blossom, nothing like the green mehndi paste.”
HyacinthHyacinthus orientalis“Green and heady, a cold spring morning.”
I
Indian trufflean accord, not an oil“Deep, earthy and a little musky.”
Iris (orris)Iris pallida and Iris germanica (the root)“Powdery, cool and soft, like violets and old lipstick.”
J
Jasmine auriculatum (juhi)Jasminum auriculatum“A softer, greener jasmine, like a garland at dusk.”
Jasmine grandiflorumJasminum grandiflorum“Sunny white jasmine: honeyed, fruity, with a warm, skin-like depth.”
Jasmine sambacJasminum sambac“Temple garlands and braids. Sweet, a little wild.”
K
KewdaPandanus odorifer (syn. P. fascicularis), the male flower“Sharp and green at first, then sweet like honey and hyacinth.”
L
Labdanumresin of Cistus ladanifer (rockrose)“Warm, sticky amber with a soft leathery glow.”
LavandinLavandula × intermedia“Lavender with a sharper, more camphorous edge.”
LavenderLavandula angustifolia“Clean, herbal and calm, with a soft, sweet floral edge.”
Leatheran accord, not an oil“An old saddle: warm, smoky and worn.”
LemonCitrus × limon“Bright, sour and clean, like zest snapped over a glass.”
LilacSyringa vulgaris“Fresh, cool and a little almondy.”
Lime and sweet limeCitrus aurantiifolia, Citrus latifolia; sweet lime: Citrus limetta“Sharp, green citrus zest, softened by the mild sweetness of mosambi.”
M
MadanbaanJasminum sambac, variety 'Madanban'“Heady night jasmine: creamy, fruity and a little wild.”
Manuka honeyan accord, not a single oil (honey of Leptospermum scoparium)“Thick, dark honey with a damp, herbal edge. Sweet, then warm skin.”
Marigold (genda)Tagetes erecta (genda); Tagetes minuta (tagetes oil)“Green apple, bitter herbs and temple garlands.”
Marine accordan accord, not an oil“Cool spray off a wave, clean and a little salty.”
Milkan accord, not an oil“Warm milk, soft and a little sweet.”
MintMentha species“Cool and sharp, the first breath of fresh air.”
Mitti attaran attar of baked earth, not a plant“The smell of first rain on hot, dry earth.”
MuguetConvallaria majalis“Lily of the valley: dewy, green and very clean.”
MuskLab-made, vegan musks · never from the musk deer“Soft, clean skin. Like fresh linen warmed in the sun.”
Myrrhresin of Commiphora myrrha“Bitter, smoky and warm, with a hint of mushroom and liquorice.”
N
Nagarmotha (cypriol)Cyperus scariosus“Smoky, earthy wood, like a campfire on damp ground.”
NeroliCitrus × aurantium (bitter orange), flowers“Fresh, honeyed orange blossom with a clean green edge.”
NutmegMyristica fragrans“Warm and sweet, a little woody.”
O
OakmossEvernia prunastri (a lichen)“Damp forest floor, bark and ink, with a faint sweetness.”
OsmanthusOsmanthus fragrans“Ripe apricot, a little honey and a soft hint of suede.”
Oud (agarwood)Aquilaria malaccensis“Dark, smoky, a little leathery. Wood that turned to perfume.”
P
Parijat (night jasmine)Nyctanthes arbor-tristis“Honeyed, airy and floral, like a garden just before dawn.”
PatchouliPogostemon cablin“Damp earth, dark wood and a hint of cocoa. Gets better with age.”
Peru balsambalsam of Myroxylon balsamum var. pereirae“Dark, syrupy sweetness: vanilla, cinnamon and warm wood.”
Petitgrainleaves of Citrus aurantium (bitter orange)“Green, woody orange. The leafy side of neroli.”
Pimento berry (allspice)Pimenta dioica“Clove, cinnamon and nutmeg in a single warm berry.”
Pine needlePinus sylvestris (Scots pine)“A cold, green breath of forest air.”
Pink lotusNelumbo nucifera“Soft, honeyed and a little powdery, like petals on still water.”
Pink pepperSchinus terebinthifolia (also Schinus molle)“A bright, rosy crackle of spice. Pepper without the burn.”
R
RoseRosa × damascena“Honeyed, a little spicy, with a green edge. The rose in full bloom.”
RosemarySalvia rosmarinus (formerly Rosmarinus officinalis)“Fresh, piney and herbal, like a sprig rubbed between your fingers.”
S
SaffronCrocus sativus“Warm, honeyed and a little leathery, like hay in the sun.”
Salted caramelan accord, not an oil“Warm burnt sugar with a pinch of salt.”
SandalwoodSantalum album“Creamy and devotional. The part that stays on you.”
Sea saltan accord, not an oil“Salt pans and sun-warm skin, not a department-store ocean.”
Sea shellsan accord, not an oil“Warm salt and wet sand.”
SeaweedFucus vesiculosus“Salty and dark, the shore at low tide.”
Smokean accord, not an oil“A wisp of woodsmoke that stays on a wool coat.”
Spikenard (jatamansi)Nardostachys jatamansi“Damp earth, old wood and a soft, musky warmth.”
Star aniseIllicium verum (the fruit)“Sweet liquorice, warm and dark, like a spice shop in winter.”
Stone mossan accord, not an oil“Wet moss on old stone after the rain.”
Styraxbalsam of Liquidambar orientalis (Levant storax) or L. styraciflua“Old leather soaked in cinnamon balsam. Smoky, sweet, a little wild.”
Sweet orangeCitrus sinensis“Juicy, sunny and sweet, like peeling a ripe orange.”
SweetgrassHierochloe odorata“Vanilla-sweet grass, soft and warm.”
T
Tej patta (Indian bay leaf)Cinnamomum tamala“A dry leaf with a warm breath of clove and cassia.”
Timur pepperZanthoxylum armatum“Grapefruit zest with a buzz. Bright, green and lightly spicy.”
Tobacco leafNicotiana tabacum“Honeyed hay, dried fruit and old leather. Warm, never smoky.”
Tolu balsamMyroxylon balsamum“Sweet and warm, vanilla with a hint of cinnamon.”
Tonka beanDipteryx odorata (the seed)“Warm hay, almond and vanilla, with a hint of tobacco.”
TreemossPseudevernia furfuracea (a lichen)“Damp bark with a resinous pine edge.”
TuberosePolianthes tuberosa“Creamy, heady white flower that grows louder after dark.”
Tulsi (Indian basil)Ocimum tenuiflorum (syn. Ocimum sanctum)“Green and spicy, with a warm clove note. Smells of home.”
TurmericCurcuma longa“Earthy, peppery and warm, with a dry ginger edge.”
V
VanillaVanilla planifolia (cured pods)“Dark, creamy sweetness with a smoky, boozy edge.”
Vetiver (khus)Chrysopogon zizanioides“Damp earth, dry wood and a curl of smoke. Cool, even in summer.”
Violet leafViola odorata, leaves“Crushed green leaves and cool cucumber skin.”
VioletViola odorata“Powdery and sweet, with a soft woody edge.”
W
White floralsan accord of white flowers“White flowers on a warm night: creamy, honeyed, luminous.”
Woodsan accord of woody notes“Dry, warm timber: the frame a perfume rests on.”
Y
Yellow applean accord, not an oil“A ripe yellow apple, sweet and juicy, just cut.”
Ylang ylangCananga odorata“Golden, swaying, like saris on a drying line.”
YuzuCitrus × junos“Grapefruit and mandarin at once, sharp, juicy and a little floral.”
AlmondPrunus dulcis“Soft and sweet, like marzipan.”
Amberan accord, not a single oil“Warm, golden and sweet, like resin melting in the sun.”
AmbergrisA vegan accord made in our studio · no material from the whale“Warm, salty skin with a soft sweetness, like sea air on a sunny rock.”
Angelica rootAngelica archangelica“Earthy, peppery and musky, with a green, herbal lift.”
B
Bakula barkMimusops elengi“Bark from a temple tree. Woody, honeyed, old.”
BasilOcimum basilicum“Green and peppery, with a touch of anise.”
Bay leafLaurus nobilis“Cool, green and herbal at first, then a warm hint of clove.”
Benzoinresin of Styrax tonkinensis (Siam) and Styrax benzoin (Sumatra)“Soft vanilla, warm resin and a whisper of smoke.”
BergamotCitrus bergamia“The first light. Bitter, bright, it wakes the skin.”
Bhojpatra (Himalayan birch bark)Betula utilis (the bark)“Dry, papery wood with a faint curl of smoke. Old pages, cold air.”
Bhui chafaKaempferia rotunda“The ghost flower. It blooms from bare earth before the rain.”
Black mushrooman accord, not an oil“Dark and savoury, the forest floor after rain.”
Black pepperPiper nigrum“Dry, warm sparkle. All the spice, none of the burn.”
Black turmericCurcuma caesia“Cool camphor and earthy root, with a faint sweetness.”
Blackcurrant (cassis)Ribes nigrum“Tart dark berries, crushed green leaves and a wild tang.”
BrahmakamalSaussurea obvallata“A cool, pale mountain flower, imagined rather than distilled.”
Buddha’s handCitrus medica var. sarcodactylis“Sweet lemon peel with no sourness at all.”
C
CardamomElettaria cardamomum“Cool, sweet and a little minty. Spice that feels fresh.”
CarnationDianthus caryophyllus“A soft flower with a warm bite of clove.”
Carrot seedDaucus carota“Earthy and powdery, like iris root and fresh soil.”
CastoreumA vegan accord made in our studio · no material from the beaver“Soft leather, smoke and a hint of dried fruit. Warm, like fur.”
CedarwoodCedrus atlantica, Cedrus deodara, Juniperus virginiana“Dry, clean wood, like a freshly sharpened pencil.”
ChamomileChamaemelum nobile (Roman chamomile)“Green apple, warm hay and a cup of herbal tea.”
Champaca (champa)Magnolia champaca (formerly Michelia champaca)“Creamy golden flower with a hint of apricot and tea.”
CinnamonCinnamomum verum (Ceylon cinnamon)“Warm, sweet, dry spice that glows rather than burns.”
Citrusa family of fruits, pressed from their peel“The first bright minute: zest squeezed over the skin.”
CivetA vegan accord made in our studio · no animal material“Warm, skin-like and a little wild. Makes flowers glow.”
Clary sageSalvia sclarea“Herbal and tea-like, with a soft ambery warmth.”
Clean laundryan accord, not an oil“Fresh sheets drying in the sun.”
CloveSyzygium aromaticum“A sacred fire burning somewhere in the distance.”
Copaiba balsamoleoresin of Copaifera species (C. officinalis, C. langsdorffii, C. reticulata)“Soft, warm wood with a peppery, honeyed glow.”
Cotton floweran accord, not an oil“Warm cotton, soft and clean against the skin.”
Cut grassan accord, not an oil“A lawn just mown in the morning.”
D
DavanaArtemisia pallens“Dried figs soaked in wine, with a soft herbal edge.”
Dry leafan accord, not an oil“Fallen leaves warming in the sun: dusty, sweet, a little like tobacco.”
E
EucalyptusEucalyptus globulus“Cool and camphorous, like clearing your head.”
F
Fernan accord, not an oil“Green, herbal and a little barbershop.”
Frankincense (olibanum)resin of Boswellia sacra“Cool church smoke with a bright, peppery, almost citrus lift.”
G
GalangalAlpinia galanga“Like ginger, but cooler: pine, pepper and a squeeze of citrus.”
GeraniumPelargonium graveolens“Rosy and green, with a minty edge.”
Ginger grassCymbopogon martinii var. sofia“Green and grassy, with a rosy heart and a peppery kick.”
GingerZingiber officinale“A warm, lemony zing that fizzes on the skin.”
Grapefruit and pomeloCitrus × paradisi and Citrus maxima“Sharp, juicy and a little bitter. Wakes you up.”
Green leafan accord of green notes“A torn leaf between your fingers: sharp, juicy, alive.”
Green mandarinCitrus reticulata“Tangy, green and zesty, like peel snapped off an unripe fruit.”
GuaiacwoodBulnesia sarmientoi“Soft smoke, smoked tea and a hint of rose.”
H
Haydried grasses“Sun-dried grass, sweet like warm tobacco.”
HeliotropeHeliotropium arborescens“Almond, vanilla and powder, like an old-fashioned cherry pie.”
Henna flower (ruh heena)Lawsonia inermis“Sweet, heavy, honeyed blossom, nothing like the green mehndi paste.”
HyacinthHyacinthus orientalis“Green and heady, a cold spring morning.”
I
Indian trufflean accord, not an oil“Deep, earthy and a little musky.”
Iris (orris)Iris pallida and Iris germanica (the root)“Powdery, cool and soft, like violets and old lipstick.”
J
Jasmine auriculatum (juhi)Jasminum auriculatum“A softer, greener jasmine, like a garland at dusk.”
Jasmine grandiflorumJasminum grandiflorum“Sunny white jasmine: honeyed, fruity, with a warm, skin-like depth.”
Jasmine sambacJasminum sambac“Temple garlands and braids. Sweet, a little wild.”
K
KewdaPandanus odorifer (syn. P. fascicularis), the male flower“Sharp and green at first, then sweet like honey and hyacinth.”
L
Labdanumresin of Cistus ladanifer (rockrose)“Warm, sticky amber with a soft leathery glow.”
LavandinLavandula × intermedia“Lavender with a sharper, more camphorous edge.”
LavenderLavandula angustifolia“Clean, herbal and calm, with a soft, sweet floral edge.”
Leatheran accord, not an oil“An old saddle: warm, smoky and worn.”
LemonCitrus × limon“Bright, sour and clean, like zest snapped over a glass.”
LilacSyringa vulgaris“Fresh, cool and a little almondy.”
Lime and sweet limeCitrus aurantiifolia, Citrus latifolia; sweet lime: Citrus limetta“Sharp, green citrus zest, softened by the mild sweetness of mosambi.”
M
MadanbaanJasminum sambac, variety 'Madanban'“Heady night jasmine: creamy, fruity and a little wild.”
Manuka honeyan accord, not a single oil (honey of Leptospermum scoparium)“Thick, dark honey with a damp, herbal edge. Sweet, then warm skin.”
Marigold (genda)Tagetes erecta (genda); Tagetes minuta (tagetes oil)“Green apple, bitter herbs and temple garlands.”
Marine accordan accord, not an oil“Cool spray off a wave, clean and a little salty.”
Milkan accord, not an oil“Warm milk, soft and a little sweet.”
MintMentha species“Cool and sharp, the first breath of fresh air.”
Mitti attaran attar of baked earth, not a plant“The smell of first rain on hot, dry earth.”
MuguetConvallaria majalis“Lily of the valley: dewy, green and very clean.”
MuskLab-made, vegan musks · never from the musk deer“Soft, clean skin. Like fresh linen warmed in the sun.”
Myrrhresin of Commiphora myrrha“Bitter, smoky and warm, with a hint of mushroom and liquorice.”
N
Nagarmotha (cypriol)Cyperus scariosus“Smoky, earthy wood, like a campfire on damp ground.”
NeroliCitrus × aurantium (bitter orange), flowers“Fresh, honeyed orange blossom with a clean green edge.”
NutmegMyristica fragrans“Warm and sweet, a little woody.”
O
OakmossEvernia prunastri (a lichen)“Damp forest floor, bark and ink, with a faint sweetness.”
OsmanthusOsmanthus fragrans“Ripe apricot, a little honey and a soft hint of suede.”
Oud (agarwood)Aquilaria malaccensis“Dark, smoky, a little leathery. Wood that turned to perfume.”
P
Parijat (night jasmine)Nyctanthes arbor-tristis“Honeyed, airy and floral, like a garden just before dawn.”
PatchouliPogostemon cablin“Damp earth, dark wood and a hint of cocoa. Gets better with age.”
Peru balsambalsam of Myroxylon balsamum var. pereirae“Dark, syrupy sweetness: vanilla, cinnamon and warm wood.”
Petitgrainleaves of Citrus aurantium (bitter orange)“Green, woody orange. The leafy side of neroli.”
Pimento berry (allspice)Pimenta dioica“Clove, cinnamon and nutmeg in a single warm berry.”
Pine needlePinus sylvestris (Scots pine)“A cold, green breath of forest air.”
Pink lotusNelumbo nucifera“Soft, honeyed and a little powdery, like petals on still water.”
Pink pepperSchinus terebinthifolia (also Schinus molle)“A bright, rosy crackle of spice. Pepper without the burn.”
R
RoseRosa × damascena“Honeyed, a little spicy, with a green edge. The rose in full bloom.”
RosemarySalvia rosmarinus (formerly Rosmarinus officinalis)“Fresh, piney and herbal, like a sprig rubbed between your fingers.”
S
SaffronCrocus sativus“Warm, honeyed and a little leathery, like hay in the sun.”
Salted caramelan accord, not an oil“Warm burnt sugar with a pinch of salt.”
SandalwoodSantalum album“Creamy and devotional. The part that stays on you.”
Sea saltan accord, not an oil“Salt pans and sun-warm skin, not a department-store ocean.”
Sea shellsan accord, not an oil“Warm salt and wet sand.”
SeaweedFucus vesiculosus“Salty and dark, the shore at low tide.”
Smokean accord, not an oil“A wisp of woodsmoke that stays on a wool coat.”
Spikenard (jatamansi)Nardostachys jatamansi“Damp earth, old wood and a soft, musky warmth.”
Star aniseIllicium verum (the fruit)“Sweet liquorice, warm and dark, like a spice shop in winter.”
Stone mossan accord, not an oil“Wet moss on old stone after the rain.”
Styraxbalsam of Liquidambar orientalis (Levant storax) or L. styraciflua“Old leather soaked in cinnamon balsam. Smoky, sweet, a little wild.”
Sweet orangeCitrus sinensis“Juicy, sunny and sweet, like peeling a ripe orange.”
SweetgrassHierochloe odorata“Vanilla-sweet grass, soft and warm.”
T
Tej patta (Indian bay leaf)Cinnamomum tamala“A dry leaf with a warm breath of clove and cassia.”
Timur pepperZanthoxylum armatum“Grapefruit zest with a buzz. Bright, green and lightly spicy.”
Tobacco leafNicotiana tabacum“Honeyed hay, dried fruit and old leather. Warm, never smoky.”
Tolu balsamMyroxylon balsamum“Sweet and warm, vanilla with a hint of cinnamon.”
Tonka beanDipteryx odorata (the seed)“Warm hay, almond and vanilla, with a hint of tobacco.”
TreemossPseudevernia furfuracea (a lichen)“Damp bark with a resinous pine edge.”
TuberosePolianthes tuberosa“Creamy, heady white flower that grows louder after dark.”
Tulsi (Indian basil)Ocimum tenuiflorum (syn. Ocimum sanctum)“Green and spicy, with a warm clove note. Smells of home.”
TurmericCurcuma longa“Earthy, peppery and warm, with a dry ginger edge.”
V
VanillaVanilla planifolia (cured pods)“Dark, creamy sweetness with a smoky, boozy edge.”
Vetiver (khus)Chrysopogon zizanioides“Damp earth, dry wood and a curl of smoke. Cool, even in summer.”
Violet leafViola odorata, leaves“Crushed green leaves and cool cucumber skin.”
VioletViola odorata“Powdery and sweet, with a soft woody edge.”
W
White floralsan accord of white flowers“White flowers on a warm night: creamy, honeyed, luminous.”
Woodsan accord of woody notes“Dry, warm timber: the frame a perfume rests on.”
Y
Yellow applean accord, not an oil“A ripe yellow apple, sweet and juicy, just cut.”
Ylang ylangCananga odorata“Golden, swaying, like saris on a drying line.”
YuzuCitrus × junos“Grapefruit and mandarin at once, sharp, juicy and a little floral.”